Thurs 11 Sept 2008 - My first post

So how did I get here?

Ever wake up several mornings in a row and just feel there has to be more to life? That's where it started. I thought a different job might help, but at the beginning of the day, you're still getting up and packing yourself into a tube to arrive at an office.

I knew about VSO from a friend, so just before Easter I talked to Jared about it and we went onto the website, www.vso.org.uk. The first indication of 'destiny' was seeing the 50th anniversary celebrations were taking place in the Festival Hall in two days' time (15 March). I quickly registered for a ticket and had a fantastic and inspirational day amongst VSOs old and new.

This school girl from Namibia worked with the headteacher from Oxford to her right to re-instill the excitement of learning to her teachers. Her ambition was to be Minister of Education in Namibia. Her proposal: teachers would become qualified not when they passed exams but when the classes they taught passed their exams.

 

 

Computers were available in break-out rooms in the Festival Hall so I started my application there and then.

Jared and I were invited to an Assessment Day on 29 April with five other prospective volunteers and their partners. Since Jared won't be joining me we were put through particularly rigorous interviews as the difficulty of separating partners is one of the main reasons for early returning volunteers. However Jared and I had discussed this in detail and we got through the interrogation!

Then come the opportunities from the Placement Advisors: your CV will be matched against the opportunities from across the world and when suitable ones arise these are forwarded to the volunteer for their consideration and application. Here comes the second 'destiny' sign.

The first opportunity that came through was for the Fantsuam Organisation in Kaduna State, Nigeria..where the Brown family lived for three years in the early 80s. Of all the places in the whole wide world! It had been my experience in Nigeria that made me keen to return to Africa and the organisation looked fantastic so I submitted my application straight away. Success! The flights are booked for 18 October 2008...

Next stage is the 'Preparing to Volunteer Course' at VSO's training centre, Harborne Hall in Birmingham. This was another inspirational experience with three fantastic trainers (Anneliese, Nicky and Serena) and a great group.

We did happen to spend most of the only sunny weekend of 2008 studying however no-one minded. Learning about the IMF and structural adjustment programmes, 'all you ever wanted to know about HIV but were afraid to ask' and how you will fit in as a volunteer packed the weekend interspersed by building of strong new friendships and the occasional glass of wine.


Making the break from work wasn't too difficult as a restructuring programme was being undertaken and, as part of that, I was able to finish on 29 August with 6 weeks to prepare for Nigeria.

However before all that there was helping with my sister's wedding on 6 September which put my first 'leisure week' very much on hold. However it was all worth it as, despite the constant downpours, it was a beautiful day that will stay in the minds of many of the guests for a long time to come.







This week it's the jabs (seven in all - Monday and Friday), the blog (voila!) and seeing my great friend Yvonne who's passing through London on her way back to Panama this afternoon. Next step - fundraising... Any ideas gratefully appreciated.

Mon 15 Sept 2008 - Jabs & Crash Helmets

Isn't the internet great? I did some research to help make this blog better and, lo and behold, found recent blogs from other Fantsuam VSOs.. However I have to say that they well and truly throw down the gauntlet, particularly Glenn at http://acanuckamuck.blogspot.com/ - any publishers out there - this deserves a wider audience! If you can't wait for me to start my own blog - try this...

So back to the crash helmets... Mine arrived on Friday. VSO don't ask - they deliver. If you're expected to drive a motorbike on your placement you must take (and pass) a 5 day motorcycle course. I won't be expected to drive one - simply use local motorcycle taxis - for which a helmet is provided... and pretty fetching I think it is too... Particularly the little ears...

Just in case you think this is a little over top - I would like to introduce you to 'David Fono - a ride through Kafanchan on the back of a motorbike' (another of the wonders of the internet). It's reassuring to see how everyone else is also wearing a crash helmet... Thanks for the footage Dave. Another great blog about life with VSO in Kafanchan if you can't wait for me to get out there and start my own..

And for those that are dying for some more news about the jabs, well, I left the most boring to last. I don't know whether it's my constitution and whether it bodes well for West Africa but so far, no side affects to Hep A, Hep B, Typhoid, Tetanus et al., Rabies, Yellow Fever and most importantly, Lariam anti-malarial which I will have to continue taking for two years. Let's hope this continues.

Today's another big day for my VSO Moodle training (VSO's online training environment) ... I'm half way through Livelihoods Approach - I really need to start my Hausa soon.

Sannu - nagode!

Wed 01 Oct 2008 - SKWID Training Part I

Subject to VSO returning my passport in the next few hours, tomorrow I will be leaving for Eindhoven to take part in my Skills for Working in Development (SKWID) training with VSO Nederland. Jared's kindly printed off my preparation materials including the IMF's Poverty Reduction Strategy for Nigeria and VSO's own Country Strategic Plan. I have four full days of classes and practical workshops along with colleagues from both Holland and the UK. I'll tell you all about it in Part II!

However Part II will be delayed as my father will be collecting me from the City airport and whisking me up to the Lake District for a short break in Borrowdale. I think the internet's found its way up there however whether it's in the hotel or not....

The last two weeks have been full of preparation - carefully planned with help from Glenn (the Canuck currently amuck in Fantsuam - see previous post). With the help of his comprehensive notes I know exactly what to pack. However I have a terrible dilemma. Whilst it's clear that a wind-up torch, a good quality laptop battery and sweets are essential items, wellies are noted as useful but not vital - and could you leave these at home?

A present from my good friend Sian, these glorious boots have never really been challenged in London but are dying to get splashing around in the muddy laterite of Kaduna State's rainy season. Keep watching this space to find out if they make it into the case...

All my other belongings that are not destined for Kafanchan are being packed away in marvellous SpaceBags and stored leaving me with three pairs of shoes and a pair of undies to live off ... Well perhaps a bit more, however what with the wellies (hopefully), crash helmet, Sobers (see below) and other essentials like sun block, hand sanitizer and multi-vitamins, I'm not sure what else I'm going to be able to take with me?

(The Sobers on the left is the one I'm talking about).

A trip to Lewisham's finest luggage discounter this afternoon is on the cards.

Can you wait for the next instalment to find out if the wellies make it? Will I ever get to Holland tomorrow? (my passport STILL hasn't arrived)... Log in next week to find out....

Tues 14 Oct 2008 - SKWID training - part II or 'Blame the Lariam'

Sorry for keeping you all on the edge of your seats for so long - but it's been a busy couple of weeks..

So to update you - I did get to SKWID ... eventually, having had to re-schedule my flight as the passport didn't arrive in time. After my harassing the VSO Travel Unit - their quick investigation with Royal Mail got to the bottom of it. When asked to confirm the delivery address for the passport, I had given VSO my street address and my father's postcode. How was I so stupid? Two options to answer that question: (a) I'm simply stupid (b) Lariam - known to be a mind altering drug. Although I have been pretty blissfully free of the psychotic side-effects Lariam can produce, I hate to think that I am simply that dumb. So I blame the Lariam.

As a result of my stupidity a.k.a. Lariam, I did have an unexpected free morning in London which I used to complete my 'PrintWeek Profile' (not coming soon to a newsstand near you) and roped neighbour, friend and photographer Scottie into a suitable picture to accompany the article, should they decide to print it. Once fired off to the editor of that august magazine, I ran to catch my re-scheduled flight. I love London City Airport! From walking out of my front door at RHP to sitting in the departure lounge, having checked in my luggage - 35 minutes. Where else in the world can you do that?

 

PrintWeek Profile picture By Scott Kohlhagen

Once in Holland, my extravagance at having to re-book my flight stayed with me guiltily as I sat in the €50 taxi from Eindhoven to Die Kleine Aarde (the small earth) in Boxtel, turning into frustration as the driver's steadfast refusal to follow VSO's helpful written instructions in favour of his two, confused sat navs added an extra €10 to the fare... However as I arrived, the SKWID team was having a fine dinner and I was able to participate in both that and the evening training session.

Once there - the training was (as usual) invaluable. Our cultural mix (trainers and 2 delegates from the UK, 5 delegates from Holland) gave us a greater appreciation of the challenges you would face... Starting with the the mayonnaise v. ketchup with chips debate.. However in the role plays we struggled equally to garner information effectively from 'Nicky Villager', choosing direct interrogation rather than good old fashioned conversation, and had varying degrees of success persuading tight-fisted 'Nicky Trustee' to allow colleagues to attend the British Council's participation workshop. I learnt a great deal although it became clear to me that my former corporate career would have also benefited from a bit more training on facilitation, participation and conflict resolution....

SKWID Group Photo, Boxtel NL

With SKWID completed in just three days - the UK contingent took a day out to sample Amsterdam and I planned to spend the day with my good IMD friend Reshmi who's based there, only to be partially foiled by Holland's railway engineering work necessitating a bus replacement service. And you thought it was only the UK! A 1.5 hour journey morphed into 3 hours giving me precious few moments to spend with Reshmi however enough to catch up, have a quick lunch and take a picture (expected in my Inbox any day now..!) in the pouring rain.

Once back it was up to Keswick in the Lakes with my father where the breathaking scenery was challenged by the wonders of the 'Cumberland Pencil Museum', and Wordsworth's house 'Dove Cottage' where he was living when he wrote "I wondered lonely as a cloud".... However the highlight was my father's 24 year old monster Volvo attacking the gradient and 1:3 hairpin bends of the Hardknott Pass like it was straight off the assembly line.

And straight after coming back from the Lakes, Jared and I were off to Beccles to visit Sian and Colin (Sian of the wellington boots of the previous post) for some real Suffolk fish and chips. And so it came to pass in the Bear and Bells in Beccles, we toasted the 'this time next week I'll be on a plane to Abuja' and it all hit home.

The suitcase is sitting on the bed, with the helmet inside, preparing to be re-packed three times as I struggle to fit the contents into both it and the luggage allowance. I have my wind-up radio, four varieties of Schwarz spices (on special at Sainsburys...) and, for the first time, nerves. No more comfy beds, simple travel, electricity when you want it and food how you like it. However so much more that I can't wait to experience. So where are the nerves coming from....? Well... I blame the Lariam...

Fri 17 Oct 2008 - These things are sent to try us

So readers - I will be staying in England at least another couple of days! My passport and visa didn't make it out of the Nigerian High Commission on time so, subject to it being despatched on Monday, my flight is now planned for Tuesday. The 'good' news is that I've just been told that the weight allowance for individual suitcases is now 23kg not 32kg as previously advised.. so now I have three days to re-pack and hopefully encounter less aggro at check-in... Every cloud....

Will the wellies still survive the re-pack?

Hmmm - a whole extra weekend in London - what to do? Suggestions please on this blog.

I'll keep you posted.

Tues 21 Oct 2008 - Still in England

Already underway to Heathrow, with a car fully laden with goodies destined for Nigeria, we received the dreaded call: the passport/visa have still not emerged from the High Commission. Rather than suffering the outbound A2 at 5.30 in the evening we have detoured via my father's in SE22 for - let me think about it now - my third family 'farewell' dinner. Each one is a joy though - particularly as Belinda is cooking.

The next flight is on Thursday however I will be personally attending the High Commission tomorrow morning to see whether my own efforts can expedite my paperwork's release.. Apologies for those who have been awaiting more exciting news from foreign climes..

Tues 28 Oct 2008 - The Crystal Palace & Cars

Advertising 'posh rooms at affordable prices', the Crystal Palace Hotel on Port Harcourt Crescent does everything it can to meet its claim of being 'the Buckingham Palace of Abuja'. Nestled between other hotels, bars and ladies of the night, this has been our home for the last three days of in-country training for the new volunteers now accompanied by their future employers from all across Nigeria.

Almost 24/7 electricity and internet connection and really wonderful staff - the Crystal Palace Hotel has it all!.

The week (or, for those whose visas arrived in time, fortnight) of in-country training has been fantastic giving us the opportunity to not only meet each other and to learn about VSO but also to meet other current VSOs from around the country at the patch meeting and VSO's partners including NGOs, foundations, academic institutions and government departments. The lively debate from all sides has been fascinating and led to fellow VSO and prospective room-mate at the Pink House, Laurie, to exclaim "that's so good I think I have to dance"..

Tomorrow Laurie, Dori and I accompany Matthew from Fantsuam on the two hour journey to Kagoro and the Pink House. .

Travelling in Nigeria is probably my greatest concern: although the driving skills are perhaps not as questionable as in parts of India where mirrors and indicators seem to be just fashion accessories, Nigerians somehow don't have the laid-back attitude of the Indian roads preferring to drive at the fastest speed the car will allow, as close as possible to the vehicle in front..

A fairly typical Nigerian roadside.

On our return from Jos, nine of us newbie volunteers bottled out of going truly 'public' (we'll save that for another day...) and hired a couple of taxis to ourselves. The shiny Opels were a sight for sore eyes, and our spirits were lifted as Sam, our driver, admonished us for not knowing how to use seatbelts in the back seat, only moving off once they were securely fastened (although I'm led to believe this is not typical of Nigeria....). The first half of our journey was conducted at a leisurely 120kph however something went amiss with the exhaust as we entered the village of Forest so Sam pulled over to a nearby roadside mechanic whilst we bought bananas and nuts from the local children whose sales skills would put Del-boy Trotter to shame!.

Waiting for the car to get repaired

This however delayed our journey by 40 minutes which then needed to be made up on the remaining part of the journey, with the two Opels travelling 140kph, bumper to bumper on a less than perfect road surface. We did luckily make it, however not without a small altercation with an equally shiny Skoda as both drivers vied for ownership of the outside lane as we went through a township on the approach to Abuja. It was a bit sobering. I would have been tempted to say 'public' would be a better option, however seeing a small, heavily laden minibus passing both of our 130 kph cars in a single overtaking manouevre leaves me feeling not so sure. Luckily though Kafanchan is literally the centre of the universe being about two hours' distance from Kaduna, Jos and Abuja which means we won't have to spend 5-10 hours in a bus to get anywhere like some of our fellow volunteers..

On the subject of cars I would also like to take this opportunity to try and introduce some new adjectives to describe car ownership, currently used in common parlance in Nigeria..

Second hand = second hand.
Belgian = second hand car from Europe: it does not actually have to be Belgian as these cars are usually adorned with characteristic European nationality stickers such as CH (Switzerland), D (Germany), NL and occasionally B (for Belgium).
Tear-leather = a brand new car i.e. where you have the priviledge of tearing the plastic covers from the leather.
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Apparently Belgian is not only applied to cars but also mobile phones and other second hand consumer goods.. How the Belgians became to be associated with second hand goods is up to your imagination!.
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So - I must leave the blog for today in order to prepare for our fancy dinner out tonight. I will need at least 40 minutes to get spruced up. Next instalment from Kafanchan.

VSO Nigeria Welcome Dinner Group Photo


And to follow the Adventure - go to the full Nigeria blog at Cicely In Nigeria!

Thurs 23 Oct 2008 - Hill Station Jos

As I finally clutched my passport complete with Nigerian visa as the doors were shutting on the immigration department at Nigeria House on Wednesday evening, I was a tad surprised to be told that I should be getting on a flight five hours later. However, thanks to Jared and a quick thinking detour to avoid the Chelsea home game, here I am and thoroughly enjoying the VSO Nigeria North patch meeting at the Hill Station Hotel in Jos, Plateau State.

Im here on a computer in the Cyber Cafe - which Ive discovered does not do inverted commas, so for those whom I frequently correct their grammar... the inaccurate punctuation is not my fault... at this time.

Im also on borrowed time gifted to me as compensation for the 35 minutes it took for the computer to actually find its way onto the internet, but that gift could be snatched away from me at any time, so please forgive an abrupt ending.

Myself and David (also delayed) arrived safely at Abuja to be collected by the excellent Christopher in the VSO HiLux and temporarily deposited at VSOs Abuja flat for some much needed rest before our visit to the programme office and our journey to Jos.

We were heartily welcomed by the staff at the office who showed us around and introduced us to Rosies, where spice-shy David and I realised that we would have to educate our palates to chili if we want to fill our tummies in Nigeria. Rosie runs her excellent establishment from a tent on a spare piece of ground behind the VSO office, having relocated there when the land across the street was developed. We were treated to plates full of delicious (but spicy) Jolloffe rice (spelling may be wrong...), fish stew and fried plantains... Whilst throughly enjoying them, I am beginning to wonder how long the novelty will last as thats pretty much been the menu for the last three days, lunch and dinner...

After lunch we once again boarded the HiLux with Christopher, accompanied on this occasion by programme staff Liz and Abdul and we had a very enjoyable journey up to the plateau to arrive in distinctly cooler Jos and the Hill Station Hotel for the patch meeting and the first meeting with my future colleagues.

Now - in the days when my father was in the British Council, VSOs were predominantly young, British men. Our group at the Hill Station comprises a couple of dozen Kenyans/Ugandans from VSO Jitolee, 3-4 from VSO India, 2 from VSO Netherlands, 3 from VSO Canada (including 2 from the US) and the remaining dozen hailing from UK/Ireland.

 

Oops - time to get off... I hope to be back online Monday/Tuesday next week with an update of what this motley crew got up to, and more importantly, how we newbies found our way back to Abuja via public transport for the first time!

And to follow the Adventure - go to the full Nigeria blog at Cicely In Nigeria!